Thursday, December 5, 2019

Rupin Pass Trek - October 2019



Sattelite image of Rupin Pass Trek


05th Oct. 2019
Day 01: Shimla – Khara Patthar – Rorhu – Larot – Chanshal – Dodra

Long drive from Shimla to Dodra over Chanshal Pass is an inclusive Himalayan Bioscope. Early morning, a team of six loaded a Chevrolet Travera from Woodville Palace, Shimla.

An expansive estate, in Shimla East, tracing its history 1860’s, Woodville Palace, an impressive double storied wooden building, housed, three successive Commanders-In-Chief of British India.

The day-long drive passed villages of Kufri and Theog, highest off-seasonal vegetable producing regions in Asia. From Theog, drive meandered through Kotkhai and ascending up to Kharapatthar and down to Rorhu. All these valleys contribute to the highest production of the best varieties of apples in India.  

At Rorhu, we stopped for last-minute shopping in the market and to process the permissions from the forest and Police department of Himachal Pradesh. Though we procured the supplies in little time, however, it took a long time get the permissions.

Leaving Rorhu, now we advanced further on broken roads through tiny hamlets which seemed like clinging to cliffs. Tea break was at Village Larot, the last village before we reached village Dodra across Chanshal Pass.

Reaching the pass, golden dusk scattered its rays over the fog enveloped snowy mountains as we sharply descended down to the foot of the valley to reach Dodra village.

Concluding the day our car reached Dodra village and the owner of only eating cum sleeping place welcomed us. We relished the late-night dinner as it was cooked on the fire and retired to our room.   

06 Oct. 2019
Day 02: Dodra – Jiskun – Jakha

Early morning, we crossed the valley and driving a few kilometers, sensing the tricky section of road, the driver exclaimed his inability to drive further. Loosing no time we unloaded our heavy rucksacks and wished a safe journey to our daring driver back to Shimla.

Sun was yet glance in the narrow valley, feeling cold, a load ferry was decided up to Jiskun village and six of us marched up the steep but beautiful valley which now was bathing in the bright sunshine. Reaching village, lunch was ordered in a modest restaurant and meanwhile, the entire load was carried up and porters were arranged for the remaining hike to village Jakha, lunch was ready. 

The village exhibited age-old typical wooden houses and they appeared jutting out of the steep slopes. We also learned that most of the villagers were busy today as they all have to carry a heavy electricity transformer up to the village of Jakha.

Having lunch, our team again continued past the village on the trail leading further to Jakha which now was gentler and we could enjoy distant views. The walk further plunged down into a river and across the bridge hot lunch was being prepared on a bonfire for the electric transformer party. Taking a breather here and a brief interaction with villagers, we advanced through a narrow cliff followed by a sharp ascend which led us to Jakha.

For early evening we finally reached our destination were welcomed by the home which was booked for all of us along with guests.

In between the owner of the house, an elderly man, indulged in conversation with us and suggested us, being late in the season we should not cross the pass and return from the base camp as it could be quite tricky to attempt it. However, we assured him about our preparedness about the safe passage across the pass into Kinnaur.

Before the dusk, guest also followed us and soon everyone got settled in our respective rooms. We got busy packing and re-packing our load and assisted for dinner in the kitchen.

Post dinner, early morning departure for the advanced team was decided and guests would follow us leisurely.  We all got packed into our sleeping bags and slept soundly through the night.   
       
07 Oct. 2019
Day 03: Jakha – Buransh Thach

Early in the morning peeping through the window, the entire sky was engrossed with thick clouds. After a quick breakfast, our advanced party left the village for our first campsite Dhandresh Thach.

Buransh Thach Campsite

Just outside the village along steep terraces, we got struck among large goat flock and soon were caught in a heavy shower. A temporary shelter saved us from getting drenched; however, soon we continued under mild drizzle and entered a thick coniferous forest.

Getting respite from the rain we decided to catch our breath, resting our heavy rucksacks on the trail we got indulged admiring the place. Suddenly one of the rucksacks rolled over steep slope down through dense foliage. And with great reflexes, Satish, one of the team members jumped down and got hold to the bag on that precarious slope!

It was a great respite to find both bag and Satish back on the trail, and advancing further, we plunged down to the riverside. Another large flock of goats crossing halted our steps again, we learned from the shepherd that due to heavy snow storm below Rupin Pass, he lost about 40 bucklings and was pretty sad about the incident.

Comforting and bidding goodbye to him, we crossed the gushing river and continued to ascend. Fearing the downpour we hasted up the mountain and as we reached the campsite, it started raining. Pitching all tents afternoon tea was ready as guests arrived at the campsite.

Our camp was by the bank of a gushing river and sunshine post-rain added to the beauty of the place. Post dinner everyone retired to our respective tents.         

08 Oct. 2019
Day 04: Buransh Thach – Lower Waterfall

Leaving the tree line which was marked by a mixed forest of Rhododendron and Silver Birch, today, our trek was taking us to Lower Waterfall Campsite. Sun glanced behind the snow-capped mountains and post breakfast, guests were departed for the day.

Wrapping up the camp, we followed our guests on the trail and while ascending shepherds were seen returning down on valley with their flocks. The trail narrowed as we continued negotiating hard-packed ice fields and precarious cliff edges.

Campsite Lower Waterfall


Finally we reached the expansive meadows of the Lower Waterfall and from here the icy waters turned into a lovely River carving the meadow through it left bank.

We quickly pitched our tents, the campsite was ready in minutes, and soon guests too arrived and were welcomed by a hot cup of tea and snacks.

After relaxing for a while a stretching exercise session was organized and all the guests were reenergized for the following day’s hike.

Evening was at leisure, everyone enjoyed golden rays of the setting sun glancing over mountains with a fresh veil of snow.

Post dinner everyone retired to their respective tents.      

09 Oct. 2019
Day 05: Lower Waterfall – Ratti Gali

Warming up the cold mornings, usually, a bubbling hot cup of ginger Chai puts the day into motion. At five in the morning, our days started with a cup of Chai for ourselves in the kitchen followed by another for guests right after an hour.

Rather a sunny morning, the weather allowed us to wrap up our camp and sweeping three successive waterfalls our convoy entered snow line. Concluding the first climb, a leveled snow-covered meadow was visible and at the corner of a gully with long rows of fixed campsite confirmed upper waterfall.

However, Pankaj Chauhan, along with porters could be seen leading the trail and everyone followed him. Under the gaze of the sun, guests enjoyed their packed lunch and were being assisted by Jitender who was sweeping the trail. He made sure everyone’s comfort and made it to the high camp at Ratti Ferri for the late afternoon. 


Summit Camp Ratti Gali



And by now clouds engrossed the entire wide panoramic view, visibility became low and it started snowing. Tonight guests enjoyed ITD (In Tent Dining), as cold restricted them to come out of their respective tents.

Snow ceased after three hours and the post-dinner sky became clear, crisp and cold and it was goodnight sleep!      

10 Oct. 2019
Day 06: Ratti Gali – Rupin Pass – Sangla Kanda

Last, the night was glowing and the morning was bright as dawn broke behind the lofty mountains.  The eye-blinding reflection of fresh snow everywhere and rays of morning sun soon added comfortable warmth around the campsite.

The entire team followed our esteemed guest and post breakfast departed toward the pass. While the sweeping team at the campsite, with its express packing skills, wrapped up the elaborate set up into respective bags.

Negotiating Gully up to Rupin Pass

Following their fresh footsteps, we left our camp toward the Pass with the sparkling the glare of morning sun and our leading team was clearly visible crawling up the shady gully.

The concluding 200 meters of the stretch, through the gully was steep however leading team smartly carved fresh snow into comfortable steps. The heavy load of our bag was pulling us back, second last in the group of twenty-four; we were having a blast at the foot of the pass.

Dau, exclaimed in native dialect about his inefficiency to advance up and the team members scattered on the silent snow gully broke out into a big laughter.

At the top of pass accompanying yet another great team, these heavenly abodes once again allowed us to cross over. And we all thanked Mountain Gods for their blessings, once again!

Delighted Guests at Rupin Pass

Mirrored by a stunning panorama of mighty Kinner Kailash range and neighboring Garhwal Himalaya mountains chain was a charismatic!  Fresh snow traverse for an hour, followed long descend through grazing yak herds, nomad shelters and lush green meadows to reach the campsite of Sangla Kanda.

As the last rays of setting sun loomed over snow-capped mountains, our campsite was ready and the final batch of our esteemed guests arrived. They were welcomed with a hot cup of tea, however, they decided to drive down to Sangla village. A jeep was organized to drop them, they all exclaimed to be it the best trek accompanied by a great team.  Bidding goodbye to all the guests, we camped for the night at Sangla Kanda meadows with our team of porters who were to be departed, early morning back to Jakha village over Rupin Pass.
    
11 Oct. 2019
Day 07: Sangla Kanda – Sangla – Rampur – Shimla

At five in the morning, porters were ready to leave for the day, we served hot tea and packed lunch and thanked for their valuable support once again on the trek.

Wrapping up the Camp and loads of Mountain Memories - Sangla-Kanda Campsite

We relaxed till the sunshine touched our campsite and then got indulged in preparing breakfast, cleaning, and packing. Today, everyone enjoyed breakfast together and leaving our camp reached Sangla for the afternoon.

The roof of the car was loaded once again and our car roared through the narrow lanes of the centuries-old Sangla village.  Overwhelmed with yet another successful trek, we sang and laughed, reconciling the moments of the trek and reached in the night to Shimla.