Pin Parbati Trek

Starting Point: Village Barshani, Kullu Valley, Himachal Pradesh. India.

End Point: Village Mudh, Pin Valley National Park, Spiti, Himachal Pradesh. India.

Duration of Trek: 09 Nights and 10 Days

Grade: Strenuous

Dated 11^th – 21^st June 2019

Satellite map of Pin Parbati Pass Trek 

The fire of an early season trek for year 2019 was smoldering since the beginning of year. While in January we were toning ourselves at our winter camp near Shimla, one fine day phone rang up and Dhananjay, a dearest friend revealed about Pin Pabati Trek in second week of June 2019.

By mid of April the trek was confirmed, Mr. Amol and his wife Mrs. Sonal were to embark this memorable voyage.

Dates were coming closer and we were busy sorting gear, shopping supplies and checking on the details of the trek. Pin Parbati Pass was discovered by Sir Louis Dane, when he first crossed the mighty Pass in August 1884, to find an alternate route to reach Spiti Valley. This Pass connects Parbati Valley of Kullu to Spiti Valley as we enter Mudh village following Pin River through Pin Valley National Park. At a maximum height of 5319 meters, this trek is considered to be one of the most difficult treks in India.

Day 00 Shimla – Narkanda - Jalori Pass – Manikaran

On 10^th June 2019, our journey kicked off from Woodville Palace – A Welcome Heritage Hotel in Shimla. An Art Deco Mansion built in 1938 as Summer Palace for the Rajas of Princely State of Jubbal, when town was the British Summer Capital of India (1846 – 1947).

Hail net covered Apple Valleys at Matyana. Photo Credits: Sanjeev Chauhan

The drive passed through the traces of Old Hindustan Tibet Road to Narkanda, first major stop-over on the ambitious British trade route over Himalaya to Tibet. Plunging down further into Sutlej valley and crossing the mighty River Sutlej, we were in district Kullu and used traces of Old British Route to reach Jalori Pass. From the Pass traversing sharply, our full day drive concluded in Manikaran village of Parbati Valley in Kullu.

Reaching Manikaran we camped for overnight by the Bank of Parbati.

Day 00 Manikaran – Barshani Village – Nakthan Village – Kheer Ganga

Morning glanced with a bright sunshine, finishing up with final shopping for trek, post breakfast at market of Manikaran, we drove to Barshaini village, the starting point of trek.

Team breakfast at Manikaran  

Weather changed dramatically and we hiked taking rain along to Kheer Ganga. This was supposed to be the first camp on our ten days trek commencing from Parbati valley of Kullu into Mudh village of Spiti valley.

However, continuous downpour restricted us to reach Kheer Ganga and we decided to pitch our tent just 2 km short of the meadow of Kheer Ganga under a cliff.

Visibility further reduced as thick fog engrossed the entire forest. Suddenly, from our tent, we heard an abrupt cracking sound approaching us. Trees shattered down and the rubble advanced toward us. However, ceased its pace soon.

The immediate victim would have been the shack, just below the actual site but with God’s grace main trunk of the shattered tree came to halt, just half a feet away, from this shack. As the catastrophe ceased, some people came out of the shack and an unexplained fear was clearly visible on their faces.

Cooking our food, distracting our minds from the recent episode, we could still hear people walking up to Kheer Ganga and completely unaware of the catastrophe. Post dinner, after a long day we retired to our cozy tent in the night full of rain!

Kheer Ganga 12 km from Barshaini village is an expansive meadow mirrored by jewels of snowy peaks. A sacred shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva is perched along with a hot Sulphur water pool on the top of meadow.

Day 01: Barshani Village – Nakthan Village – Kheer Ganga

June 12, 2019: Dawn broke under a mild drizzle, after a quick breakfast, at the lucky shack from a hospitable Nepali couple, we covered last stretch of our walk and established our camp at Kheer Ganga.

While I hopped down to Barshaini with Raj (a team member who drove us from Shimla) to escort our guests on the trek and rain accompanied us on the entire walk. As seasonal hikers, Mrs. and Mr. Amol were fascinated with the grade of trail passing through typical Himalayan hamlets and offering views of snow-bounded towering peaks blended with thick veil of fog. And series of healthy discussions took us to our camp.

Crossing Parbati  over a narrow gorge en route Kheer Ganga 

Here guest enjoyed a hot bath in the sacred pool believe to have curative properties and post dinner with a hope of clear skies we all retired to our respective tents.       

Day 02: Kheer Ganga – Tunda Bujh

Dawn broke out behind snowy mountains and while entire meadow was under effect of sleep, we quickly headed to the hot water pool, bathed and were revitalized as the lush green valley around us.

Post breakfast, we advanced to Tunda Bujh through a thick coniferous cover this full day hike was intercepted by lush green meadows and silence of valley was interrupted regularly by abrupt sounds of turbulent glacial streams.

The course of trail transformed continuously from shaded, pine needled cushioned to broken and uneven rocky terrain, from expansive lush green expansive meadows to long section of trails gripped with slush all over.

Lunch today was by the banks of a gurgling brook which extended as a lush green meadow for few kilometers. En route shade of Stately Deodars at regular intervals offered respite from scorching Sun.

While passing through one of these meadows, herds of buffaloes and horses were enjoying the fresh blades of grass and a hoarse bark of two rapidly advancing shepherd dogs broke the silence of place. Our advancing party was left surprised. However, bravely we restricted their advancement and we carefully slipped out of the site. Shepherd dogs are extremely vigilant and territorial for their herds and masters.

Towards end of the day, we reached Tundabujh, an end to a long stretch ended here and we camped here next to a turbulent stream.  

Tunda Bujh Campsite

A group of shepherds, their herd and a resident Baba (Sadhu), we all shared this lovely meadow for a night. We spoke to the exited group of shepherd and learned about their journey in mountains for the season.

Aayush (Trek Guide) informed us that the forest Inspection lodge, above our campsite, was vacated for restorations and is presently occupied by a Baba!

Tiny chimney of the lodge, emitting smoke, confirmed the occupant. And here, not to be missed a naughty puppy, super – excited, almost ran over everything at the camp.

The night turned into galaxy of stars and entire valley got lit up with as moon adored the snowy mountains. The smoke coming out of the lodge’s chimney made everything a perfect frame.

Day 05: Tunda Bujh – Thakur Kuan

After a long rain spell, mountains were welcoming us, and yet another wonderful sunny morning at Tunda Bujh was an enchanting site.

The transition, zone of evergreen forest and alpine zone was marked by thick shady grooves of Pink Rhododendrons (Botanical name: Rhododendron niveum) and Himalayan Birch (Betula utilis), native to Himalaya. In ancient times white paper like peel of barks was used for writing Sanskrit scriptures.   

And trail to Thakur Kuan, our next campsite, today welcomed us through long stretch of cool shaded Pink Rhododendron grooves and Himalayan Birch, before we were exposed to sun.

The easy graded trail continued for an hour bringing us to a foot of huge snow bridge across gushing Parbati. And this was good news as we could now skip the tricky ‘Patra Dhar.’  

Aayush along with guests on the top of a sheer climb, above the snow bridge, could clearly see us as three of us marched up the slope!

Bringing our breaths to normal and making good use of time, we enjoyed the ascent further which traversed up and under the guidance of colossal mountains we were on our way to Thakur Kuan.

After, long uphill traverse we were excited to see another cross over on the river, and this time it was pulley bridge crossing. However, due to short rope we were not able to reach the bucket. Then Sanjeev (Trek Leader) roped himself and over the fixed ropes of pulley entered bucket, reached the other side and fixed the problem.

Campsite at Thakurkuan

We all crossed the River safely and a flat stretch of lush green cover on other side was our campsite.

The confluence of Parbati with a glacial Rivulet added charm to this place. The high pastures up on either side of valley, herds of goats and sheep were scattered all over! And as sun was setting down they all marched back on their master’s call.

Being on a long travel, hectic schedule and long hikes, guest decided to use their rest day here. Everyone relaxed, groomed and enjoyed this lovely sunny day at the camp.

Day 07: Thakur Kuan – Odi Thach

As sun glanced behind the mighty mountains, refreshed and rejuvenated from rest day, post breakfast, we all advanced today to Odi Thach.

Being early in season, lovely wildflowers scattered in the wide valley were struggling to sprout while due to heavy winters snow capped mountains were regulating temperature perfect for hiking!

Today’s thrill of the day was ‘Pandu Pul’, a huge rock over Parbati to crossover. Advancing up we came across an energetic and dynamic shepherd from Karsog (in District Mandi, Himachal Pradesh). We enjoyed humorous moments with him at our brief stopover and out of many people we met en route, he only encouraged us to cross Pin Parbati Pass.  

The enjoyable flat trail soon ascended sharply and we saw Aayush, with guests at far end of valley.  A gigantic rock covering the entire river was continuously visible as we started ascend and this was Pandu Pul (Pandu Bridge) I murmured to myself.

Creeping myself steadily up the hill, I heard Sanjeev who was sweeping the trail, shouting to handover a small rope to him as his duffel bag strap gave away. Issue was solved and we both continued together and soon found ourselves on a steep scree traverse. Feet could not hold to the slipping ground and sound of raging Parbati beneath us was tearing away the silence of the valley!

As we approached the enormous rock, to our amusement, Parbati vanished underneath it.

Mythology supports that during Pandavas exile, as they were venturing through this area, Bhim one of the Pandava turned this rock over the river, thus named as Pandu Pul.

A morning at Odi Thach

From here, we could see a tiny trail shooting up the mountain, following it we found shepherds hut on the top of ridge. The entire area was dotted with hundred of sheep and goats and after roar of the river, their sound was pleasant to ears. We had series of discussion on life here in mountains and they were very courteous, invited for lunch and offered tea, however we politely denied and continued our ascent.

Reaching on the ridge we found undulating valleys full of moraine fields followed by stretch of long flat meadows, guarded by huge mountains. Post lunch rain followed us for about an hour and before we could reach our campsite and it started snowing.

Taking advantage of huge rock on this expansive ground, we quickly pitched all tents right under the rock to avoid the snow storm which was on the move now. We dried our clothes in our heated kitchen tent and like other days shared light moments of the day with our guests. Pressure cooker whistled, serving dinner to guest, we all dined too and concluded yet another amazingly beautiful and long day!

              

Day 07: Odi Thach – Mantalai

After the snowy evening, morning was sunny and delightful, we dried everything all our clothes and belongings. Sanjeev, took up a yoga session and all were left spellbound with his impeccable stretching techniques.

Morning Yoga session at Odi Thach

All of us savored hot breakfast at a hillock just above our camp, which last night was shrouded under thick fog while today we could clearly see our previous day walk fading down in valley and stretch of moraine fields ahead was welcoming us for the day.

This marked the end of meadows and after a rigorous moraine exercise we reached Mantalai. Enveloped under 30 – 35 feet of snow, Parbati was making its way down into the valley. Touching our feet on the snow, a small monument with prayer flags was visible now. Every one bowed down in respect as it truly was Abode of Gods.

Walk ahead on this never ending stretch of snow which, at places was divided by patches of slushy and wet ground. Few gushing streams welcomed us and there was no alternate route than to cross them.

It was afternoon and we all got together to have lunch, clouds approaching from the valley were engulfing everything on its way. The place also marked beginning of a sheer ascend, discussing route, with initial climb, fixing ropes followed by a traverse on snow negotiating stretches of cliff was decided. However, after an hour of painstaking ascent, this trail came to an end!

Retracing our steps we reached a point which could have been a possible route, was ignored as it was extending 300 meters, at an angle of 80 degrees covered with hard packed snow. Before we could fix the ropes and start the climb it started snowing and entire valley was wiped out by white-out.

Sanjeev instructed to descend quickly and establish camp at the foot of this climb. We carefully descended, did camp set up and prepared snacks for the team. While Sanjeev and Aayush aided guest down the slope. It snowed for about two hours and post dinner blue sky was teeming with stars.            

Day 08: Mantalai – High Glacial Camp

After last night snow, a crisp, clear and sunny morning was looming down the snow-capped ranges. From our camp initial climb was easily visible, post breakfast advance team along with guests departed. We joined them on rope fixed stretch and were all delighted with our effort as entire team relaxed and enjoyed bird-eye views of Mantalai, below us now!

The trail ahead soon vanished on a never ending slope of hard packed snow. After discussion Sanjeev started the climb up the mountain trying to avoid the tricky traverse. It was 1530 hours and accompanied by guests we were doing well with time. Entire team was roped up for further climb on snow and advanced at slow pace.

Advancing up the col

A sudden white-out forced us to reduce our pace; however, Mahinder (Chef) advanced and reached the flat section of glacier. Hurriedly we did the camp set up and within minutes we were again in our cozy tent.

Everyone was overwhelmed with day’s effort and all of us were doing great with the elevation gain.

Our tent window framed South Parbati, 6127 meters, impressively as moonlight bathed over these humongous peaks.    

Day 09: High Glacial Camp – Summit Camp

At 0730 hours our advanced team with guest started the day long glacial climb followed by us. Our steps started sinking as we progressed on the slope with the bright sunshine, drawing out all our energy.

High Glacial Camp

Soon we felt an unusual feeling beneath our steps, large chunk of snow was making a cracking sound as if there was a large void and it was a serious concern.

Following the ridge was less treacherous but was proving long course to cover and we again tried shortcut. This time the sound became hoarser and we both (I and Mahinder) were filled with anxiety while approaching to the middle of the stretch where melt was maximum.

However, we safely reached the slope and this one drew all our energies as  we sunk deeper this time.

Rest of our team was waiting for us on the top of ridge, creeping up slowly we finally reached them. Though the day was clear, however, I could sense the snow storm advancing at the far end above South Parbati.

With no sign of pass in our visibility, post lunch we kept on advancing toward the pass not in sight. A sharp sound of a Himalayan Snowcock(Tetraogallus himalayensis) pair in flight pierced the calm surrounding. A peculiar feather stripes were clearly visible whereas sound confirmed the pheasants. 

Himalayan Snowcock frequents alpine pastures and steep ridges of mountains of Central and South Asia above the treeline and near the snowline. In the Himalayas, it is found between 4000 and 5000 meters elevation in summers, descending to 2400 meters during severe winters. 

It started snowing and finding a flat section on glacier we decided to camp. Being above 5000 meters and exposed to high mountains, here strong winds were testing the quality of tents, however, they survived.

Since we have arrived around 1530 hours, it allowed ample time for us to prepare meals and get organized for the next morning.  Snow was mild now as we went to sleep.

Day 10: Summit Camp – Mudh Village

Weather didn’t give us respite, thick fog reduced visibility, sensing snow, advance team departed with guest at 0700 hours and we followed them.

And within an hour, tricolor in our hands, we all were on the top of Pin Parbati Pass. This was a moment to be cherished and our combined efforts had turned fruitful till now. However, it was a long way ahead to Mudh village. As a common saying that it is optional to climb but mandatory to descend.

Delighted team members on Pin Parbati Pass

In chorus we recited ‘Vande Mataram’ took some quick photos with poor visibility and one by one started to descend.

Walking downhill after nine days was enjoyable and steeper slopes turned as into a slide. Everyone was at the bottom of valley in less than two hours.

And a long traverse with combination of snow fields, moraine fields and steep slopes along Pin River would take us down to village of Mudh! Maintaining a good pace by 1730 hours we touched the road and Mudh was 19 km ahead, closed for traffic road had regular, turbulent glacial streams and snow fields, extending from mountain top to the bottom of Pin River.

Gaze of moonlit night on snow-capped mountains, guided us to the village, negotiating snow and gushing water stretches, yet another episode of Great Himalayan Outdoors came to end.

Here we would like to extend our sincere thanks to all those behind this sucess:

1. Dhananjay Ahluwalia, Being Out There, Shimla. 
2. Owners and Team, Hotel Woodville Palace Shimla
3. Entire Family, Tara Guest house, Mud Village, Spiti.
4. Lara, Spiti Valley Tours, Spiti.