Sattelite image of Rupin Pass Trek |
05th Oct. 2019
Day 01: Shimla – Khara Patthar –
Rorhu – Larot – Chanshal – Dodra
Long
drive from Shimla to Dodra over Chanshal Pass is an inclusive Himalayan
Bioscope. Early morning, a team of six loaded a Chevrolet Travera from Woodville
Palace, Shimla.
An
expansive estate, in Shimla East, tracing its history 1860’s, Woodville Palace,
an impressive double storied wooden building, housed, three successive
Commanders-In-Chief of British India.
The
day-long drive passed villages of Kufri and Theog, highest off-seasonal
vegetable producing regions in Asia. From Theog, drive meandered through Kotkhai
and ascending up to Kharapatthar and down to Rorhu. All these valleys contribute
to the highest production of the best varieties of apples in India.
At
Rorhu, we stopped for last-minute shopping in the market and to process the
permissions from the forest and Police department of Himachal Pradesh. Though we
procured the supplies in little time, however, it took a long time get the
permissions.
Leaving
Rorhu, now we advanced further on broken roads through tiny hamlets which
seemed like clinging to cliffs. Tea break was at Village Larot, the last
village before we reached village Dodra across Chanshal Pass.
Reaching
the pass, golden dusk scattered its rays over the fog enveloped snowy mountains
as we sharply descended down to the foot of the valley to reach Dodra village.
Concluding
the day our car reached Dodra village and the owner of only eating cum sleeping
place welcomed us. We relished the late-night dinner as it was cooked on the fire
and retired to our room.
06 Oct. 2019
Day 02: Dodra – Jiskun – Jakha
Early
morning, we crossed the valley and driving a few kilometers, sensing the tricky
section of road, the driver exclaimed his inability to drive further. Loosing no
time we unloaded our heavy rucksacks and wished a safe journey to our daring
driver back to Shimla.
Sun
was yet glance in the narrow valley, feeling cold, a load ferry was decided up
to Jiskun village and six of us marched up the steep but beautiful valley which now
was bathing in the bright sunshine. Reaching village, lunch was ordered in a
modest restaurant and meanwhile, the entire load was carried up and porters were
arranged for the remaining hike to village Jakha, lunch was ready.
The
village exhibited age-old typical wooden houses and they appeared jutting out
of the steep slopes. We also learned that most of the villagers were busy today
as they all have to carry a heavy electricity transformer up to the village of
Jakha.
Having
lunch, our team again continued past the village on the trail leading further
to Jakha which now was gentler and we could enjoy distant views. The walk
further plunged down into a river and across the bridge hot lunch was being
prepared on a bonfire for the electric transformer party. Taking a breather
here and a brief interaction with villagers, we advanced through a narrow cliff
followed by a sharp ascend which led us to Jakha.
For
early evening we finally reached our destination were welcomed by the home
which was booked for all of us along with guests.
In
between the owner of the house, an elderly man, indulged in conversation with
us and suggested us, being late in the season we should not cross the pass and
return from the base camp as it could be quite tricky to attempt it.
However, we assured him about our preparedness about the safe passage across
the pass into Kinnaur.
Before
the dusk, guest also followed us and soon everyone got settled in our respective
rooms. We got busy packing and re-packing our load and assisted for dinner in
the kitchen.
Post
dinner, early morning departure for the advanced team was decided and guests would
follow us leisurely. We all got packed
into our sleeping bags and slept soundly through the night.
07 Oct. 2019
Day 03: Jakha – Buransh Thach
Early
in the morning peeping through the window, the entire sky was engrossed with thick clouds.
After a quick breakfast, our advanced party left the village for our first
campsite Dhandresh Thach.
Buransh Thach Campsite |
Just
outside the village along steep terraces, we got struck among large goat flock
and soon were caught in a heavy shower. A temporary shelter saved us from getting
drenched; however, soon we continued under mild drizzle and entered a thick
coniferous forest.
Getting
respite from the rain we decided to catch our breath, resting our heavy
rucksacks on the trail we got indulged admiring the place. Suddenly one of the
rucksacks rolled over steep slope down through dense foliage. And with great
reflexes, Satish, one of the team members jumped down and got hold to the bag
on that precarious slope!
It
was a great respite to find both bag and Satish back on the trail, and advancing
further, we plunged down to the riverside. Another large flock of goats crossing
halted our steps again, we learned from the shepherd that due to heavy snow
storm below Rupin Pass, he lost about 40 bucklings and was pretty sad about the
incident.
Comforting
and bidding goodbye to him, we crossed the gushing river and continued to
ascend. Fearing the downpour we hasted up the mountain and as we reached the
campsite, it started raining. Pitching all tents afternoon tea was
ready as guests arrived at the campsite.
Our camp was by the bank of a gushing river and sunshine post-rain added to the
beauty of the place. Post dinner everyone retired to our respective tents.
08 Oct. 2019
Day 04: Buransh Thach – Lower
Waterfall
Leaving
the tree line which was marked by a mixed forest of Rhododendron and Silver
Birch, today, our trek was taking us to Lower Waterfall Campsite. Sun glanced
behind the snow-capped mountains and post breakfast, guests were departed for
the day.
Wrapping
up the camp, we followed our guests on the trail and while ascending shepherds were
seen returning down on valley with their flocks. The trail narrowed as we
continued negotiating hard-packed ice fields and precarious cliff edges.
Campsite Lower Waterfall |
Finally
we reached the expansive meadows of the Lower Waterfall and from here the icy
waters turned into a lovely River carving the meadow through it left bank.
We
quickly pitched our tents, the campsite was ready in minutes, and soon guests too
arrived and were welcomed by a hot cup of tea and snacks.
After
relaxing for a while a stretching exercise session was organized and all the
guests were reenergized for the following day’s hike.
Evening
was at leisure, everyone enjoyed golden rays of the setting sun glancing over
mountains with a fresh veil of snow.
Post
dinner everyone retired to their respective tents.
09
Oct. 2019
Day
05: Lower Waterfall – Ratti Gali
Warming
up the cold mornings, usually, a bubbling hot cup of ginger Chai puts the day into
motion. At five in the morning, our days started with a cup of Chai for
ourselves in the kitchen followed by another for guests right after an hour.
Rather
a sunny morning, the weather allowed us to wrap up our camp and sweeping three
successive waterfalls our convoy entered snow line. Concluding the first climb,
a leveled snow-covered meadow was visible and at the corner of a gully with long
rows of fixed campsite confirmed upper waterfall.
However,
Pankaj Chauhan, along with porters could be seen leading the trail and everyone
followed him. Under the gaze of the sun, guests enjoyed their packed lunch and were
being assisted by Jitender who was sweeping the trail. He made sure everyone’s
comfort and made it to the high camp at Ratti Ferri for the late afternoon.
Summit Camp Ratti Gali |
And
by now clouds engrossed the entire wide panoramic view, visibility became low
and it started snowing. Tonight guests enjoyed ITD (In Tent Dining), as cold
restricted them to come out of their respective tents.
Snow
ceased after three hours and the post-dinner sky became clear, crisp and cold and
it was goodnight sleep!
10 Oct. 2019
Day 06: Ratti Gali – Rupin Pass –
Sangla Kanda
Last, the night was glowing and the morning was bright as dawn broke behind the lofty
mountains. The eye-blinding reflection
of fresh snow everywhere and rays of morning sun soon added comfortable warmth
around the campsite.
The entire team followed our esteemed guest and post breakfast departed toward the
pass. While the sweeping team at the campsite, with its express packing skills,
wrapped up the elaborate set up into respective bags.
Negotiating Gully up to Rupin Pass |
Following
their fresh footsteps, we left our camp toward the Pass with the sparkling the glare of morning sun and our leading team was clearly visible crawling up the
shady gully.
The
concluding 200 meters of the stretch, through the gully was steep however
leading team smartly carved fresh snow into comfortable steps. The heavy load
of our bag was pulling us back, second last in the group of twenty-four; we were
having a blast at the foot of the pass.
Dau,
exclaimed in native dialect about his inefficiency to advance up and the team
members scattered on the silent snow gully broke out into a big laughter.
At
the top of pass accompanying yet another great team, these heavenly abodes once
again allowed us to cross over. And we all thanked Mountain Gods for their
blessings, once again!
Delighted Guests at Rupin Pass |
Mirrored
by a stunning panorama of mighty Kinner Kailash range and neighboring Garhwal
Himalaya mountains chain was a charismatic! Fresh snow traverse for an hour, followed long
descend through grazing yak herds, nomad shelters and lush green meadows to
reach the campsite of Sangla Kanda.
As
the last rays of setting sun loomed over snow-capped mountains, our campsite
was ready and the final batch of our esteemed guests arrived. They were welcomed
with a hot cup of tea, however, they decided to drive down to Sangla village. A
jeep was organized to drop them, they all exclaimed to be it the best trek
accompanied by a great team. Bidding
goodbye to all the guests, we camped for the night at Sangla Kanda meadows with
our team of porters who were to be departed, early morning back to Jakha
village over Rupin Pass.
11
Oct. 2019
Day
07: Sangla Kanda – Sangla – Rampur – Shimla
At
five in the morning, porters were ready to leave for the day, we served hot tea
and packed lunch and thanked for their valuable support once again on the trek.
Wrapping up the Camp and loads of Mountain Memories - Sangla-Kanda Campsite |
We
relaxed till the sunshine touched our campsite and then got indulged in
preparing breakfast, cleaning, and packing. Today, everyone enjoyed breakfast
together and leaving our camp reached Sangla for the afternoon.
The roof of the car was loaded once again and our car roared through the narrow lanes
of the centuries-old Sangla village.
Overwhelmed with yet another successful trek, we sang and laughed,
reconciling the moments of the trek and reached in the night to Shimla.